Height of Manaslu

The height of Manaslu is 8,163 meters (26,781 feet), and it is the eighth most elevated summit in the world. It rises in the Nepalese Himalayas. In west-central Nepal, this mountain is part of the Manaslu Himal. It is a challenging climbing peak for mountain and adventure lovers. Its height makes the hill distant and tall. It is part of the Himalayas. It is famous among climbers and trekkers worldwide.

Manaslu means ‘Mountain of the Spirit.’ It sums up this mountain’s status in the hearts of South Asians and climbers. Climbers love its steep, diverse routes. They go from rich valleys to glacial peaks. Manaslu guarantees a rewarding experience to climbers and trekkers at its base. It is one of the most beautiful places in the world.

The Height of Manaslu in comparison with other peaks

The height of Manaslu mountain is 8,163m. It is one of the largest in the Himalayas. Only Everest, K2, Kangchenjunga, Lhotse, Makalu, Cho Oyu, and Dhaulagiri are bigger.

Compared to other Himalayas mountains, Manaslu holds a prominent position.

History of the Manaslu Expedition

In 1950, the glorious Mount Manaslu grabbed the attention of an English Mountaineer, H.W. Tilman, during his expedition to the Annapurna Range. However, he and his team did not attempt to summit this world’s eight-highest mountain.

Four Japanese expeditions explored the mountain’s north and east faces between 1950 and 1955. However, none of the expeditions succeeded in reaching the summit. The first people to ascend to the top of the Manaslu were Toshio Imanishi and Gyaltsen Norbu on 1956 May 9. They were part of the Japanese Expedition team, Aristsune Maki, led by Maki Yuko.

It took a long time for the next expedition teams to summit Mount Manaslu. The second successful climb took place in 1971 by Kazuharu Kohara and Motoki, who were part of an 11-man Japanese team. They summited the mount via the north-west route on May 17, 1971. Since then, many other expedition teams from different countries around the world have successfully submitted Manaslu.

Climbing Manaslu

Challenges and difficulties faced by climbers

Climbing Manaslu is very challenging. It is an arduous, complex task. Here are the key issues climbers often face:

Extreme Altitude

Altitude Sickness: At 8,163 meters (26,781 feet), Manaslu reaches a height where altitude sickness becomes a severe concern. The thin air and low oxygen levels can cause severe altitude sickness. Hence, climbers must acclimatize to avoid this.

Acclimatization: Adequate acclimatization is essential for a safe ascent. To acclimate the body, climbers must stay at mid-altitude, increasing the climb’s time and challenge.

Weather Conditions 

Unpredictable Weather: The weather in Manaslu can be highly unpredictable, with sudden storms, heavy snowfall, and extreme cold. These conditions can be life-threatening, as in an avalanche or frostbite.

Temperature Extremes: Temperatures can plummet well below freezing, especially at higher altitudes, making the climb physically and mentally demanding.

Technical Climbing Challenges

Glacial Terrain: The route involves navigating through crevasses, icefalls, and steep snow and ice slopes. This requires technical climbing skills and experience with ice and mixed terrain.

Rock Faces: Sections of the climb include steep rock faces that require technical climbing equipment and expertise.

Risk of Avalanches and Landslides

Avalanche Risk: The mountain’s glacial and snow-covered terrain makes it susceptible to avalanches triggered by weather conditions or climbers’ movements.

Landslides: Rockfall and landslides are additional hazards, particularly during heavy snowfall or after storms.

Logistical Challenges

Remote Location: Manaslu is in a remote area of Nepal, requiring a lengthy trek to reach the base camp. The isolation adds complexity. It needs supplies and support from local guides and porters.

Permits and Regulations: Climbing Manaslu requires multiple permits and adherence to local regulations, which can be bureaucratic and time-consuming to arrange.

Physical and Mental Endurance

Physical Demands: The climb demands high levels of physical fitness and endurance. Climbers must prepare themselves for long, strenuous days at high altitudes.

Mental Resilience: Emotionally, climbers are forced to cope with irritating, harsh adverse conditions and may even be alone throughout the climb, in addition to the rigorous exercise that strains the body.

In summary, several factors make Manaslu a challenging, worthwhile climb. These are altitude, weather, technicality, and logistics, which include prep, acclimatization for the next phase, and support on the hill.

Success rates and common routes to the top

The chances can differ based on the weather, the team’s experience, and acclimatization. In the past, optimists have cited a 60-70% success rate for reaching the peak. However, it varies according to yearly conditions and other factors. 

There are five main climbing routes to Mount Manaslu. They are as follows:

1. Eastern ridge
2. West face
3. South face
4. Southeast face
5. Northeast 

Despite the routes, the starting point for the Manaslu expedition is Sama Gaon. The standard route is the Northeast face route. It is the most used by climbers, but it does not mean that it is easy. It usually means doing several ‘shakedown’ climbs. It also means setting up camps at higher elevations. This is to prepare for a ‘go for the top’ attempt.’ Still, Manaslu is in great demand for those willing to climb one of the top seven tallest peaks on the planet.

Impact of climate change

Climate change significantly affects Manaslu and its surroundings. It alters the area’s biology and aspects of an ascent. Rising temperatures have sped up the mountain glaciers, which may cause an avalanche or a landslide. The effects of the precedent and later changes in ice and snow spell instability of climbing routes. This implies increased difficulty of the climbs. Also, melting glaciers boost river flows and flood risk in the lower slopes, causing nearby floods.

Also, climate change alters the surrounding environment, which, in return, affects Manaslu’s ecosystem. Temperature and precipitation fluctuations affect local plants and animals. They may change environments and the distribution of related species. Such changes in the alpine environment can damage this stability. They threaten the ecosystem on which the native population’s way of life depends. The Manaslu case study shows with climate change worsening, we must protect the environment and use sustainable practices.

Best Season for the Manaslu Mountain Expedition

Spring (March to May)

The best season to climb Manaslu is spring. It is the best time for an eight-thousand-meter expedition as well as Manaslu Trekking. The temperature is moderate in this period. So, there are few weather changes, like heavy snowfall, this season. The pre-monsoon season lowers the chance of snow and ice. They are more robust by then. So, the possibility of avalanches is low or zero. Other climbing conditions improve. Also, spring lacks the harsh cold and snow of winter. It comes before the summer monsoon, which brings heavy rain. So, spring is the best time for a safe climb.

Summer (June to August)

But, the summer, also the monsoon season in Nepal, is the worst time to attempt climbing Manaslu. The climbing conditions are worse in summer. The weather is wet and humid, with storms and high rain. The monsoon rains cause glacier bursts. It raises the risk of avalanches and landslides. But cloudy and rainy weather lowers visibility. This makes navigation and safety a big issue. These conditions make summer a dangerous time for mountaineering.

Autumn (September to November)

The second preferred season to climb Manaslu is autumn, although the best is spring. This is a fantastic season after the monsoon. It’s more relaxed and, on average, sunny. But it’s less sunny than summer. The risk of avalanches is low. The monsoon season is ending. Ice and snow conditions are now better. Usually, visibility is better. So, navigation and climbing are safer than on other steep slopes. Autumn is not as good as spring for climbing. But it is a stable season. You can choose autumn if you miss your first choice (spring).

Winter (December to February)

Winter is a difficult time for climbing due to extreme conditions. The climate here becomes extremely cold. Snow covers the mountain, and stiff winds blow. Freezing temperatures can cause frostbite. Snow increases the risk of avalanches. They are generally white, from a natural shine to fresh snow. Frequent snowstorms and constant clouds often obscure them when trying to climb. These motives make winter a harsh, dangerous time for mountaineering. It requires significant experience. So, the climb is only suitable from November to February. Most people avoid winters for a Manaslu expedition.

Permits Requirements for Manaslu Mountain Expedition

Climbers have to obtain several permits for the Manaslu Mountain Expedition. These include:

Manaslu Restricted Area Permit

Mount Manaslu is within the restricted and remote area of Nepal, which requires a special permit to access. That special permit is the Manaslu Restricted Area Permit, which climbers can obtain from the Nepal Tourism Board office in Kathmandu through a registered trekking agency. 

The cost of the permit in autumn is USD 100 for the first week and USD 15 for each additional day. Meanwhile, the permit cost for winter, spring, and autumn is USD 75 for the first week and USD 10 for each additional day.

Manaslu Conservation Area Permit

Mount Manaslu is also within the Manaslu Conservation Area, the country’s second-largest conservation area. It houses fragile and diverse flora and fauna with 11 types of forests. There are an estimated 2000 species of plants, 201 birds, 39 mammals, 3 reptiles, and 11 butterflies. Hence, due to its delicate nature, trekkers must obtain the Manaslu Conservation Area Permit (MCAP) to access it. 

The cost of MCAP is NPR 1000 per person for SAARC nationals and NPR 3000 per person for non-SAARC nationals. You can obtain the permit at the conservation entry point or the Nepal Tourism Board office in Kathmandu through a registered trekking agency.

Manaslu Climbing Permit

In addition to the restricted and conservation area permits climbers must obtain the Manaslu Climbing Permit. The climbing permit fees will vary depending on the season and the number of climbers in a group. Climbers must also hire a certified climbing guide per the Nepal Mountaineering Association (NMA) rules and regulations. 

The mountaineering royalty fees for foreign climbers for the Manaslu Expedition are: 

Spring: USD 1800 per person

Autumn: USD 900 per person

Winter/ Summer: USD 450 per person

Conclusion 

Mount Manaslu is a great and mighty mountain with a precise height of 8163m (26781ft). Its high altitude makes it one of the world’s tallest mountains. So, it is one of the most adventurous to climb. But seven other Himalayan mountains are taller: Mount Everest, K2, and Kangchenjunga.

As a mountain measure, elevation identifies several acute climbing problems. These include altitude and climate changes, technical issues, and organizational challenges. Manaslu’s exact height gives us a key reference point. It shows the challenge and grandeur of this magnificent mountain.

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