Imja Tse is one of the most famous climbing peaks in Nepal. It stands in the Everest Region and reaches a height of 6,189m. And it is popularly known as Island Peak. Eric Shipton’s party has given this name in 1951. As the peak resembles an island in a sea of ice when viewed from Dingboche. Later in 1983, the peak was given the Nepali name Imja Tse. The peak was first ascended in 1953 by a British team as part of their preparations for climbing Everest. Tenzing Norgay was one of the members of the first ascent team. The peak is actually part of the south ridge of Lhotse Shar and forms a semicircle of cliffs. The cliff rise to the north of Nuptse, Lhotse, Middle Peak, and Lhotse Shar.
Expeditions to the peak can either go by road to Jiri and then by trail to Solu Khumbu or fly to Lukla. A day’s trek from Lukla takes you to the entrance to Sagarmatha National Park. Another day’s trek reaches the town of Namche Bazaar, the gateway to Everest’s base camp. The best idea from here is to continue to either Everest Base Camp or Kala Pattar, at 5545m, from where there is a famous view of Everest. Either trek is good for acclimatizing before the climb of Island Peak. One very good trek for acclimatizing is to walk along the Gokyo valley. Before moving on to Chukhung we cross the Chola pass, visiting both Kala Pattar and Everest Base Camp. From Chukung it takes a 5-hour trek to reach Island Peak Base Camp at 5200m.
The camp is in a small valley with Island Glacier on the right. From Base Camp, we climb steeply up to 5500m. Basically, the climb takes about 3 hours and set up a high camp. From there the climb is rocky at first, then after across a glacier, with crevasses, to reach a final steep ascent to the summit. They have fixed rope for the final summit climb.
Note: B=Breakfast, L= Lunch, D=Dinner